Caring for My Straight Hair

September 2010

Usually I like to use water based moisturizers but when my hair has been straighten/roller-set; water based moisturizers would revert my curl and defeat the purpose. So I need implement my straight hair regimen.

I continue to do protective styles when my hair is straight (buns, french braids, tucked ponytails, etc)

Every other night (or sooner, if needed) I apply a palm full of any lightweight oil to my length (about the last 6-10 inches of my hair). If needed, I will also oil my scalp - but not often.

If I plan to bun for a few days I used something a little heavier like the Koils by Nature hair butter on the ends of my hair.

Lastly, I make sure to wear my satin scarf or bonnet each night.

I have some Vatika oil that I have been waiting to try. I am going to use that for the next fews that I am roller-setting my hair. If you have any experience with this oil, please share.

Roller-set complete!

So, I battled the heat and decided to roller-set my hair and attempt to sit under that hot dryer (see why I almost didn't here).

It was hot so I'm going to be honest and say that I did not (could not) sit under that dryer long enough for the set to dry completely. So. I ended up air drying and flat ironing (that will be another post) but not bone straight. I have some body but as soon as my feet hit the street on Saturday I immediately missed my curls- they are an extension of my personality.

Braid-out on Flat Ironed Hair

To roller-set:

1. Hair was shampooed and deep conditioned

2. Leave-in conditioner applied

3. Hair was divided into five sections in preparation for the "cheat roller set"

4. Each ponytail was divided in two and set on magnetic rollers using FOTE aloe vera gel

5. I sat under the dryer for almost an hour and then let the set air dry for an additional hour

6. After removing the rollers, I flat ironed my hair on med heat, one pass, and with IC Fantasia heat protector

7. I am still styling my hair in buns because the point of roller setting was to gauge the shape of my hair and to stretch out my ends for SSK prevention

Let's see if I can do two weeks of this before washing...

Heat and Your Natural Texture

Question: Why Won't My Hair Return to its Natural Texture After Pressing?

If you've pressed your natural hair for years (or even once with an iron or comb that was too hot), you may find some sections don't snap back anymore, even after shampooing. What happened to your hair's ability to revert back to its natural texture once water hits it?

Answer:

What happened is heat damage. Yes, your hair can lose its ability to curl and will remain permanently straight, and damaged. This happens when you use heat that's too high – it doesn't have to happen over time. One incident with a too-hot curling iron, flat iron or hot comb and this could happen. Even if you wear your naturally curly hair straight all the time, this isn't a result you want because the hair has been fried straight and is not healthy.

The only solution for the damaged hair is, unfortunately, to cut it off. If you have several damaged sections all over, you'll need to get rid of them, which means an overall cut. If you're trying to grow your hair longer, this is probably the last thing you want to hear, but it's necessary for the overall health of your hair. Once you cut off the damaged parts, you can start or return to a healthy hair regimen.

Source: Flat Iron Damage

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The above question is a situation that many naturals can find themselves in after straightening.

I haven't received the following question directly but I have seen it a lot on numerous hair boards. This seems to be a frequent hot topic (no pun intended). 

My experience? I've never been relaxed but I did wear a press n curl for years. Since a stove top hot comb was used on my hair and I could hear the grease sizzle, I am pretty sure that I suffered some form of heat damage. For a few years the curls on one side of my head were looser than the other side. It's possible that those loose curls were a reflection of that damage. 

I used to think that over time my curls did actually revert but the more I think about it, I am convinced that reversion was not what was happening. I dye my hair (maybe twice a year) and that's no secret. Well, because I dyed my hair I could tell by the roots that my hair was growing however, my length always stayed the same. Breakage.

So now my train of thought? My heat damage grew out and broke off. Many lessons learned. I still have my pressing comb but I have not used it in years. I stopped pressing/straightening my hair regularly starting January 2005. I may straighten my hair 1-2 times a year and when I do, I now use my ceramic flat iron on med heat. So far I have not suffered any more damage, my curls revert (fast), and I am retaining length. 

I am sure that I am on the right path now when it comes to heat.

BraidOut on Straight Hair

This was actually my first time doing a braid out on straight hair. I liked the waves and if I was so in need of a washing I would have worn this for a day or two.

She's Straight ;)

Friday night, I used a flat iron....I know...wow.

The IC Fantasia Heat Protector Straightening Serum worked great! Yes, I will definitely use it again.

First I pre-pooed, shampooed, and deep conditioned my hair. Detangling with each step

Second, I roller-set my hair using some watered down Care Free Curl Instant Moisturizer and FOTE Aloe Vera gel.

Then, when my hair was dry (and stretched) I used my Andis Flat Iron on medium heat. I flat ironed in small sections applying the heat protector lightly to each section. I could have gotten my hair "bone straight" with more work - but that is not the look I wanted.

After straightening, I did go back and lightly grease my scalp with some shea.

Lastly, I wrapped my hair and left it that way until it was time to go to church. I wore a hat when I went out on Saturday.

Heat Protection

My plans for the end of the Castor Oil challenge originally included a roller-set so that I could get an idea of how much length I had retained by the end of winter. I decided to also flat-iron for a super straight look that is now rare for me.

Because I now care about what I do to my hair I want to take proper precautions so I started doing my research on heat protectants. I never used one before because I didn't know any better.

What I found was:

-heat protectants work by coating the hair and protecting it during heat styling

-most heat protectants contain dimethicones and other -cones to protect the hair

-a good heat protectant has a low thermal conductivity (it absorbs heat)

-they can serve as protection from UV rays (hmmm?)

-if your hair is wet, heat can cause the water in the hair shaft to boil/steam which can cause the hair shaft to burst

-thermal protectors coat the hair with polymers and provide topical protection

-no amount of product can fully protect your hair from heat

Here is the product that I am going to try:

WISH ME LUCK!!!!

Roller Setting

I decided that since I had a little extra time with the holiday weekend to attempt my first roller set. I read on one of those hair blogs/websites that when roller setting 4abc hair, it was impossible to get smooth curls. That is my problem with the internet..you have people that have never touched your hair telling you what it can and can not do. I have had my hair long enough to know what is possible and what's not. I am here to declare that smoothness can be achieve through roller setting on 4abc hair!

Supplies:

Fruit of the Earth Aloe Vera Gel

Sweet Almond oil

Spray Bottle with water/conditioner mix (for detangling)

Elastic Hair Bands

Annie Magnetic Hair Roller

Duck Bill Clips

Rat Tail Comb

Hair Brush (yep you read right)

Home Clips

Shea Butter/Coconut Oil Mix

Hair Dryer

I did my roller set on clean conditioned hair. First, I separated my hair into three sections with a column going down the middle. The column is where I started rolling. Using my rat tail comb I made smaller sections and used the hair clip to hold the rest of my hair back. For each section I detangled very well, applied Aloe Vera, and then sweet almond oil. (Note: Sweet almond oil was used because I like the shine that it gives my hair).

I used the hair brush to evenly distribute the gel and oil and also to smooth before rolling. If you detangle properly the brush will move through your length easily. I did not roll my hair straight down. I came in at an angle to encourage smoother roots. I used elastic bands for the curls within the interior of my hair but only rollers for the edges. I didn't want a lot of tension on my edges and I didn't want the indention from the band to show.

After I was all rolled up, which took about 45min-1hr(keep in mind this was my first time), I sat under the dryer until dry. If the hair is not completely dry, you will experience some reversion and frizziness, so be sure to do this on a day that you can sit for as long as needed. After removing roller wrap your hair until you are ready to take it down. I used the shea butter/coconut oil mix to apply to my curls prior to wrapping. This was an attempt to decrease frizzes.

I strongly believe that the trick to the roller set is to use a water based product that you know will give your hair some slickness and almost weigh it down. Since it's water based the weigh down will not matter because the product evaporates.

In The News: Protein Treatment=No Frizz

This is interesting...a process that straightens hair but fades over time. The stylist describes it as going from Diana Ross to Beyonce. Hmmm?

Key points:

• Applying Coppola Designer Hair Care’s Keratin Complex Smoothing Therapy to hair works by infusing the protein keratin into the hair, decoiling curls and taming frizz certified keratinologistoffer this treatment as a solution to unruly, frizzy, dry or damaged hair

• A client can repeat the treatment every four to six weeks to continue improving the quality of the hair, but touchups aren’t entirely necessary. Unlike chemical relaxers, results from this semi-permanent treatment fade after four to six months, depending on lifestyle and maintenance

• Treatments start at $300, depending on the amount of product and time the stylist needs to administer it and requires at least three hours during the first appointment

My overall opinion about this is that I feel that this "treatment" will eventually stretch out the coils too much. I also don't like the amount of heat that is used through out the process. It seems to be a healthier alternative to relaxers but only time will tell.

For the record....I LOVE ME SOME DIANA ROSS, HAIR AND ALL!

Check out the story here:

Protein treatment helps fight frizz, decoil curls